Raising the Steaks
If you feed cows grass, does the beef taste better?
By Mark Schatzker
Posted Wednesday, Nov. 1, 2006, at 2:37 PM ET
Can you tell how good a steak is going to taste by looking at it? The government thinks you can. That's why, when a USDA meat grader assesses the quality of a beef carcass, he or she makes an incision between the 12th and 13th rib, takes a good look at how much marbling there is, and assigns the meat a grade, from the highest, Prime, to Choice and Select and all the way down to Canner. That's why a well-marbled steak, one that is abundantly flecked with little specks and streaks of white fat, costs a lot more than a steak that's all red muscle.
But is marbling all there is to a good steak? Doesn't, say, a cow's diet have something to do with the way a steak tastes? And can someone please explain why that gargantuan USDA Prime strip loin I ate in Las Vegas last year had about as much flavor as a cup of tap water? I decided to find out for myself. My mission: to taste steaks from cattle raised in very different ways and see how they stack up.
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Related in Slate
In Slate's Audio Book Club this month, critics Stephen Metcalf, Meghan O'Rourke, and Katie Roiphe discuss Michael Pollan's book The Omnivore's Dilemma, which examines the question of how to eat responsibly. Economist Tyler Cowen offers his critique of the book here. Mark Schatzker previously explained what medieval theme restaurants get wrong about medieval food.To understand good steak, it helps to know a thing or two about how it gets on your plate. These days, most calves are born on ranches, suckled by their mothers, and then sent out to pasture. When they reach 6 months, they're sent to a feedlot where they're "finished" on grain, usually corn. Grain isn't a cow's natural diet, but it's the feed of choice for two reasons: It makes cattle gain weight quickly, and it results in well-marbled beef.
But according to the ranchers and food scientists I spoke to, there's a lot more to a good rib-eye than intramuscular fat. A few other factors to consider:
Breed. Angus is currently the most popular among North American ranchers. This is partly due to economics—Angus cattle mature quickly and put on weight well—but also because Angus beef is reliably marbled and tender. Not all well-marbled steaks come from Angus cows, however. Grain-feeding techniques have become so effective that even dairy cattle (such as Holsteins) can achieve a grade of Prime. (According to Cattle-Fax, a cattle-marketing information service, 17 percent of American beef comes from dairy cattle.) Does a Prime steak from a dairy cow taste as good as a Prime steak from an Angus cow? Every rancher, meat packer, and butcher I spoke to told me an Angus steak would taste better. But good luck telling the two apart at the supermarket.
Feed. Just as soil affects the quality of wine, a cow's diet can change the quality of its flesh. Some North American cattle are finished on wheat or barley rather than corn. Is there a difference? One rancher told me that barley makes for flavorful beef and warned that wheat can make beef tough. Another rancher said, "Corn is the worst. It results in the greatest lack of flavor in beef." And what about grass-fed beef? Raising a cow on grass alone is ecologically friendly. But does it taste any good?
Hormones. Almost all feedlot cows are injected with growth hormones to help them gain muscle mass; critics charge that doing so merely causes cows to retain water and produces bland meat.
Aging. Steak from a freshly slaughtered cow is stringy and tough. For this reason, beef is aged, a process that tenderizes it and enriches the flavor. Traditionally, beef was hung in a cold room, where natural enzymes would break down the muscle fibers. Dry aging, as it's known, isn't cheap. The beef loses weight to evaporation, and the moldy crust that develops on the exterior has to be lopped off, which makes the remaining beef more expensive. In the 1970s, industrial meat processors opted for wet aging—sealing entire cuts of beef in cellophane—because it's cheaper. But most beef connoisseurs agree that dry-aged beef tastes better.
Before you walk into your neighborhood butcher and say, "Three rib-eye Angus steaks, please, pastured in the Rocky Mountain foothills, finished on barley, but with a hint of oats, and dry-aged for 28—no, make that 29—days," keep in mind that as a consumer, such choice does not exist. That said, if you scour specialty butcher shops or Google "steak," you'll discover other options, including naturally raised, grain-fed, and grass-fed beef. Which leaves carnivores with the question: Which steak tastes the best?
Methodology:
We sampled rib-eye steaks from the best suppliers I could find. The meat was judged on flavor, juiciness, and tenderness and then assigned an overall preference. The tasting was blind, except for me. (Someone had to keep track of things.) Cooking method: Each steak was sprinkled with kosher salt, then sent to a very hot gas-fired grill, flipped once, and, when just verging on medium-rare, was removed and rested under foil for five minutes.
The Results:
From worst (which, in all fairness, was still a decent steak) to first:
USDA Prime Beef, Wet Aged
Price: $32.50 per pound
Aging: Wet
Purveyor: Allen Brothers (http://www.allenbrothers.com/)
What it is: The best beef the industrial system has to offer. Only 2 percent of steak receives the lofty grade of Prime.
The knock against it: Feedlots are often nasty places, infamous for their cramped conditions, unnatural diets, contaminated groundwater, and clouds of fecal dust. These steaks may have come from one of the more humane operations. Unfortunately, it's simply not possible to know.
Breed: Impossible to say, though Allen Brothers' suppliers guarantee that their steaks are from high-quality beef breeds, the majority of which are Angus.
Hormones? Likely.
Raw impressions: Of all the competitors, these USDA Prime steaks looked the best raw. They had a pleasing shape, no unappetizing thick veins of fat, and abundant marbling. One taster's note: "Now those look like the kind of steaks I'd spend money on."
Tasting notes: This steak was juicy and so tender you could have practically cut it with a Q-tip. The only problem? Flavor—there wasn't much. Comment: "Not something that would have impressed me had I bought it at the supermarket."
USDA Prime Beef, Dry Aged
Price: $35 per pound
Aging: Dry
Purveyor: Allen Brothers (http://www.allenbrothers.com/)
Raw impressions: Visually, it was impossible to distinguish the dry-aged from the wet-aged rib-eyes.
Tasting notes: This steak had more flavor than its wet-aged sibling. Tasters described it as "woody" and "smoky," although the texture reminded one taster of liver. Despite all the time it spent hanging in a cold room losing moisture, it seemed juicier than the wet-aged steak.
Wagyu Beef
Price: $40 per pound
Aging: Dry
Purveyor: Strube Ranch Gourmet Meats (Wagyu beef from a different supplier can be purchased online here: www.morganranchinc.com/store/index.shtml)
What it is: The Japanese have a thing for incredibly marbled beef, which is known as Kobe beef. According to legend, they feed cows a secret ancient recipe that includes beer and keep their muscles tender by massaging them with sake. This beef was raised on American soil, so it can't technically be called Kobe. But the breed—called Wagyu—is the one that the Japanese use, and the method of raising them is comparably particular. At about 9 months of age, Wagyu cattle are sent to a small, Kobe-style feedlot, where they spend more than a year eating a diet that includes some corn, but a lot of roughage as well. After that, they're sent to a finishing lot where they eat an all-natural but top-secret diet.
The knock against it: The price. Also, there are Wagyu-beef enthusiasts who say cooking it like a regular steak will lead to disappointment and an acute sense of having been ripped off. As the "foie gras" of beef, they maintain, it's better suited to searing or being served raw in, say, a miso-ginger-sesame-sake dressing.
Hormones? None.
Raw impressions: On looks alone, this steak faired the worst. The fat appeared pallid, and the meat possessed a gamey smell that had some tasters wondering if it had gone off.
Tasting notes: When cooked, though, what started out as a peculiar aroma mellowed into a distinctive taste that everyone enjoyed, although to varying degrees. (One person said: "I like it in the same way I like blue cheese.") The consensus: "Gamey, strong flavor. I like it."
Naturally Raised Grain-Fed Beef
Price: $26.70 per pound
Aging: Dry
Purveyor: Niman Ranch (http://www.nimanranch.com/)
What it is: As with industrial beef, these cattle are finished on grain at a feedlot, which makes for well-marbled steak that is consistently tender. But Niman Ranch claims to raise cattle "with dignity." Feed is sourced locally. The feedlot is less crowded and features shaded areas and sprinklers where cattle can cool off. Niman Ranch cattle are finished on a blend of grain—including barley, corn, soy beans, and distiller's dry grain—along with plenty of roughage, which makes the grain easier on bovine stomachs. Also, Niman Ranch waits an extra year before sending cattle to the feedlot on the theory that steaks from an older cow, though slightly less tender, will taste better.
The knock against it: It's pricey.
Breeds: Angus, Hereford, and Short Horn
Hormones? None
Raw impressions: Niman Ranch doesn't sell its beef based on a USDA grade because Bill Niman doesn't believe in the direct correlation between marbling and eating quality. That said, these steaks were the most marbled of the bunch.
Tasting notes: Gustatory joy. Everyone loved this steak, declaring it juicy, tender, and, most importantly, bursting with flavor. Comments were roundly flattering, proclaiming it to be "full bodied" with "a good steaky taste," "mouth-filling and rich—holy cow!"
And the winner is…
Grass-Fed Beef
Price: $21.50 per pound
Aging: Dry
Purveyor: Alderspring Ranch (http://www.alderspring.com/)
What it is: Beef from cows that have never ingested anything other than mother's milk and pasture, which is just as Mother Nature intended. Like great wine and cheese, grass-fed beef possesses different qualities depending on where it's grown and what time of year it's harvested. The grass-fed steaks for this experiment came from a ranch in Idaho where cattle graze on orchard grass, alfalfa, clover, and smooth brome (a type of grass) in the summer and chopped hay in the winter. Also: Some studies have shown that grass-fed beef is lower in saturated fat and higher in omega-3 fatty acids, making it healthier than regular beef.
The knock against it: Consistency, or lack thereof. One grass-fed rancher I spoke to refused to send me any steak for this article because, he said, it sometimes tastes like salmon. Restaurants and supermarkets don't like grass-fed beef because like all slow food, grass-fed beef producers can't guarantee consistency—it won't look and taste exactly the same every time you buy it. Grass-fed beef also has a reputation for being tough.
Hormones? None
Breeds: Alderspring cattle are 90 percent Black and Red Angus, with some Hereford and Short Horn, Salers, and Simmental bred in. ("Red Angus cattle finish particularly well on grass," according to Glenn Elzinga, who runs Alderspring Ranch.)
Raw impressions: Not good. It had the least marbling, and what little fat it had possessed a yellowy tinge.
Tasting notes: Never have I witnessed a piece of meat so move grown men (and women). Every taster but one instantly proclaimed the grass-fed steak the winner, commending it for its "beautiful," "fabu," and "extra juicy" flavor that "bursts out on every bite." The lone holdout, who preferred the Niman Ranch steak, agreed that this steak tasted the best, but found it a tad chewy. That said, another taster wrote, "I'm willing to give up some tenderness for this kind of flavor."
The Verdict:
Marbling, schmarbling. The steak with the least intramuscular fat tasted the best—and was also the cheapest. That said, the steak with the most marbling came in a not–too-distant second. Do the two share anything in common? Interestingly, neither was finished on straight corn or treated with hormones. Both steaks also hail from ranches that pride themselves on their humane treatment of bovines. That made for an unexpected warm and fuzzy feeling as we loosened our belts, sat back, and embarked on several hours of wine-aided digestion.
Monday, April 5, 2010
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
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Myths and Facts about Beef
1. Americans eat too much meat.
2. Meat contributes the majority of fat to the American diet.
3. Meat has too much fat, saturated fat and calories.
4. A meatless diet is more healthful.
5. Health organizations recommend eating chicken and fish, but not red meat.
6. Beef is hard to digest.
7. Growth hormones used in beef production are unsafe.
8. Beef cattle are given a large amount of antibiotics on a regular basis.
9. High levels of pesticides & residues have been found in beef and beef products.
10. There are good foods and bad foods.
1. Myth: Americans eat too much meat.
Fact: On average, Americans consume only 4.9 ounces of foods from the meat group per day while the USDA's Food Guide recommends 5.5 ounces, based on a 2,000-calorie diet. Studies show that 72 percent of adult females and 37 percent of adult males are not getting the minimum number of servings from the meat group.
In addition, 87 percent of girls ages 6-11, 74 percent of girls ages 12-19, 76 percent of boys 6-11 and 45 percent of boys ages 12-19 are eating less than the recommended servings from the meat group, which can lead to serious consequences for their physical and cognitive development. Just one 3-ounce serving of lean beef is an excellent source of protein, zinc, vitamin B12, selenium and phosphorous, and a good source of niacin, vitamin B6, iron and riboflavin.
source: 1998 Continuing Survey of Food Intake by Individuals
2 . Myth: Meat contributes the majority of fat to the American diet.
Fact: While fat intake from meat is declining, fat intake from other sources is increasing. Hidden fats that are in the bread and vegetable groups contribute more fat to American diets than do red meats and processed meats.
3. Myth: Meat has too much fat, saturated fat, and calories.
Fact: Today's beef is leaner than ever before and fits within the guidelines for a healthy diet that is low in saturated fat. Beef is 20 percent leaner than USDA indicated just 14 years ago, and there are at least 29 cuts of beef , including many favorites, that meet government guidelines for lean. Thirteen of the 29 lean beef cuts have, on average, only one more gram of saturated fat than a skinless chicken breast per 3-ounce serving. Yet, beef's leanest cuts have eight times more vitamin B12, six times more zinc and three times more iron than a skinless chicken breast.
4. Myth: A meatless diet is more healthful.
Fact: Naturally nutrient-rich foods, like lean beef, help people get more essential nutrients in fewer calories. A 3-ounce serving of lean beef contributes less than 10 percent of calories to a 2,000-calorie daily diet, yet it's an excellent source of protein, zinc, vitamin B12, selenium and phosphorus; and a good source of niacin, vitamin B6, iron and riboflavin.
A 3-ounce serving of lean beef provides about the same amount of protein as 1-1/2 cups of legumes, but in half the calories. Unlike plant proteins, lean beef is a source of high quality protein and is the food supply's most readily available and easily absorbed source of iron and zinc. Beef also is an excellent source of vitamin B12, an essential nutrient that is not readily available in plant protein sources.
5. Myth: Health organizations recommend eating chicken and fish, but not red meat.
Fact: An expert panel of the National Cholesterol Education Program, in a published report on its finding, says 5-6 ounces of lean meat per day are an appropriate part of low-fat diets designed to lower blood cholesterol. The report, approved by the American Heart Association and 26 other major health organizations, says, " It is not necessary to eliminate or drastically reduce lean red meat consumption. Lean meat contains highly absorbable iron and is a good source of zinc and vitamin B-12."
6. Myth: Beef is hard to digest.
Fact: Digestibility refers to the proportion of a food that becomes available to the body as absorbed nutrients. Beef is highly digestible- in fact, 97% of beef is digestible, in comparison to 89% of flour and 65% of most vegetables. However, many people equate digestibility with the length of time a food remains in the stomach. Beef and other protein foods remain in the stomach longer than fruits and vegetables- and consequently provide a feeling of fullness for a longer period of time.
7. Myth: Growth hormones used in beef production are unsafe.
Fact: The beef industry continually strives to improve the efficiency of producing high-quality products to meet consumer demand. "Growth-promoting hormones" have been used in recent years to improve the animal's ability to more efficiently utilize the nutrients that it consumes in order to produce more muscle and less fat. The hormones are administered by placing an implant (about the size of a pencil eraser) under the skin in the middle of the animals ear. This location is used because the ears are not offered for human consumption.
Animals that are implanted with these hormones grow as much as 15 to 20 percent faster than untreated animal. In addition, the cattle produce more lean meat and less fat than cattle raised without hormones. But is the beef safe for human consumption? The scientific evidence worldwide overwhelmingly indicates there is no hazard to human health resulting from the consumption of beef from animals implanted with growth-promoting hormones.
8. Myth: Beef cattle are given large amounts of antibiotics on a regular basis.
Fact: In reality, antibiotics are used very sparingly by cattlemen. Antibiotics are used to treat animals that are sick, but those animals are not permitted to be marketed until the antibiotic residue has been reduced to safe levels in the animal's system (as determined by requirements of the Food and Drug Administration [FDA]).
In addition the cattle industry does not feed penicillin to cattle as it has never been proven to be effective, and has also never been approved by the FDA for use as a cattle feed additive. Tetracycline, on the other hand, is approved by the FDA and was widely used in the past. Since 1985, the use of tetracycline as a routine feed additive has been discontinued even though volumes of data available from USDA and FDA clearly show that the use of antibiotics in feed does not result in residues of antibiotics in meat.
9. Myth: High levels of pesticides & residues have been found in beef and beef products.
Fact: Pesticide residues have not been found to be a problem in the beef industry. Pesticides are of great concern to consumers, but these substances pose little risk to human health. Although most pesticides are used on crops and lawns, it is possible for small amounts of pesticide residues to be on grains eaten by livestock. If this should happen, any possible residues in meat would be far below those levels deemed unsafe by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the World Health Organization.
The FDA closely monitors the safety of any drugs used by the livestock industry. The USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service inspects the animals to ensure that the meat supply is safe and wholesome. Under FDA regulations, the amount of residues in meat from cattle implanted with hormones cannot exceed 1% of the average amount of hormone produced by a person in the most sensitive segment of the human population. For example, a healthy pre-pubescent boy who produces 41,500 mg of estrogen each day (assuming 10% of the estrogen digested is absorbed) would have to consume more than 2,180 three-ounce servings of beef per day to equal the FDA's 1% limit.
10. Myth: There are good foods and bad foods.
Fact: There is no such thing as a good food and a bad food in appropriate amounts. Foods should not be singled out, but the whole diet should be examined. There are healthy diets and there are junk diets. Variety and balance are the keys to a healthful diet.
Utah Beef Council
150 South 600 East #10B
Salt Lake City, UT 84102
1. Americans eat too much meat.
2. Meat contributes the majority of fat to the American diet.
3. Meat has too much fat, saturated fat and calories.
4. A meatless diet is more healthful.
5. Health organizations recommend eating chicken and fish, but not red meat.
6. Beef is hard to digest.
7. Growth hormones used in beef production are unsafe.
8. Beef cattle are given a large amount of antibiotics on a regular basis.
9. High levels of pesticides & residues have been found in beef and beef products.
10. There are good foods and bad foods.
1. Myth: Americans eat too much meat.
Fact: On average, Americans consume only 4.9 ounces of foods from the meat group per day while the USDA's Food Guide recommends 5.5 ounces, based on a 2,000-calorie diet. Studies show that 72 percent of adult females and 37 percent of adult males are not getting the minimum number of servings from the meat group.
In addition, 87 percent of girls ages 6-11, 74 percent of girls ages 12-19, 76 percent of boys 6-11 and 45 percent of boys ages 12-19 are eating less than the recommended servings from the meat group, which can lead to serious consequences for their physical and cognitive development. Just one 3-ounce serving of lean beef is an excellent source of protein, zinc, vitamin B12, selenium and phosphorous, and a good source of niacin, vitamin B6, iron and riboflavin.
source: 1998 Continuing Survey of Food Intake by Individuals
2 . Myth: Meat contributes the majority of fat to the American diet.
Fact: While fat intake from meat is declining, fat intake from other sources is increasing. Hidden fats that are in the bread and vegetable groups contribute more fat to American diets than do red meats and processed meats.
3. Myth: Meat has too much fat, saturated fat, and calories.
Fact: Today's beef is leaner than ever before and fits within the guidelines for a healthy diet that is low in saturated fat. Beef is 20 percent leaner than USDA indicated just 14 years ago, and there are at least 29 cuts of beef , including many favorites, that meet government guidelines for lean. Thirteen of the 29 lean beef cuts have, on average, only one more gram of saturated fat than a skinless chicken breast per 3-ounce serving. Yet, beef's leanest cuts have eight times more vitamin B12, six times more zinc and three times more iron than a skinless chicken breast.
4. Myth: A meatless diet is more healthful.
Fact: Naturally nutrient-rich foods, like lean beef, help people get more essential nutrients in fewer calories. A 3-ounce serving of lean beef contributes less than 10 percent of calories to a 2,000-calorie daily diet, yet it's an excellent source of protein, zinc, vitamin B12, selenium and phosphorus; and a good source of niacin, vitamin B6, iron and riboflavin.
A 3-ounce serving of lean beef provides about the same amount of protein as 1-1/2 cups of legumes, but in half the calories. Unlike plant proteins, lean beef is a source of high quality protein and is the food supply's most readily available and easily absorbed source of iron and zinc. Beef also is an excellent source of vitamin B12, an essential nutrient that is not readily available in plant protein sources.
5. Myth: Health organizations recommend eating chicken and fish, but not red meat.
Fact: An expert panel of the National Cholesterol Education Program, in a published report on its finding, says 5-6 ounces of lean meat per day are an appropriate part of low-fat diets designed to lower blood cholesterol. The report, approved by the American Heart Association and 26 other major health organizations, says, " It is not necessary to eliminate or drastically reduce lean red meat consumption. Lean meat contains highly absorbable iron and is a good source of zinc and vitamin B-12."
6. Myth: Beef is hard to digest.
Fact: Digestibility refers to the proportion of a food that becomes available to the body as absorbed nutrients. Beef is highly digestible- in fact, 97% of beef is digestible, in comparison to 89% of flour and 65% of most vegetables. However, many people equate digestibility with the length of time a food remains in the stomach. Beef and other protein foods remain in the stomach longer than fruits and vegetables- and consequently provide a feeling of fullness for a longer period of time.
7. Myth: Growth hormones used in beef production are unsafe.
Fact: The beef industry continually strives to improve the efficiency of producing high-quality products to meet consumer demand. "Growth-promoting hormones" have been used in recent years to improve the animal's ability to more efficiently utilize the nutrients that it consumes in order to produce more muscle and less fat. The hormones are administered by placing an implant (about the size of a pencil eraser) under the skin in the middle of the animals ear. This location is used because the ears are not offered for human consumption.
Animals that are implanted with these hormones grow as much as 15 to 20 percent faster than untreated animal. In addition, the cattle produce more lean meat and less fat than cattle raised without hormones. But is the beef safe for human consumption? The scientific evidence worldwide overwhelmingly indicates there is no hazard to human health resulting from the consumption of beef from animals implanted with growth-promoting hormones.
8. Myth: Beef cattle are given large amounts of antibiotics on a regular basis.
Fact: In reality, antibiotics are used very sparingly by cattlemen. Antibiotics are used to treat animals that are sick, but those animals are not permitted to be marketed until the antibiotic residue has been reduced to safe levels in the animal's system (as determined by requirements of the Food and Drug Administration [FDA]).
In addition the cattle industry does not feed penicillin to cattle as it has never been proven to be effective, and has also never been approved by the FDA for use as a cattle feed additive. Tetracycline, on the other hand, is approved by the FDA and was widely used in the past. Since 1985, the use of tetracycline as a routine feed additive has been discontinued even though volumes of data available from USDA and FDA clearly show that the use of antibiotics in feed does not result in residues of antibiotics in meat.
9. Myth: High levels of pesticides & residues have been found in beef and beef products.
Fact: Pesticide residues have not been found to be a problem in the beef industry. Pesticides are of great concern to consumers, but these substances pose little risk to human health. Although most pesticides are used on crops and lawns, it is possible for small amounts of pesticide residues to be on grains eaten by livestock. If this should happen, any possible residues in meat would be far below those levels deemed unsafe by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the World Health Organization.
The FDA closely monitors the safety of any drugs used by the livestock industry. The USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service inspects the animals to ensure that the meat supply is safe and wholesome. Under FDA regulations, the amount of residues in meat from cattle implanted with hormones cannot exceed 1% of the average amount of hormone produced by a person in the most sensitive segment of the human population. For example, a healthy pre-pubescent boy who produces 41,500 mg of estrogen each day (assuming 10% of the estrogen digested is absorbed) would have to consume more than 2,180 three-ounce servings of beef per day to equal the FDA's 1% limit.
10. Myth: There are good foods and bad foods.
Fact: There is no such thing as a good food and a bad food in appropriate amounts. Foods should not be singled out, but the whole diet should be examined. There are healthy diets and there are junk diets. Variety and balance are the keys to a healthful diet.
Utah Beef Council
150 South 600 East #10B
Salt Lake City, UT 84102
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